Cozumel - Attractions
The reefs are where it's at for prime scuba diving off this island. One of the best is the kilometres-long Arrecife Palancar (Palancar Reef), where stunning coral formations and a 'horseshoe' of coral heads offer some of the world's finest down-under - all at an amazing 70m (230ft) visibility. Underwater photographers should come ready to shoot like mad. The water around the reef is about 24m (80ft) deep, providing pros opportunities for fantastic deep-water diving. The north end of the reef, called Palancar Gardens, is shallower but just as gorgeous. There are caverns and plenty of brightly coloured sea creatures.
The Palancar Reef areas are popular, so their much-lauded coral is always vulnerable to attack. Be careful to leave the area no less pristine than it was before your arrival. To get to this reef, which is over a kilometre (not quite a mile) off shore, you can sign up for a day cruise or charter a boat from a tour agency.
This Mayan ruin, which functioned as a jail in the 19th century, is the oldest on the island, dating way, way back to AD800. It's not a very obviously alluring attraction, but is the most accessible of Cozumel's ruins; it's 3.5km (2mi) down a paved road that heads off to the left a kilometre or two south of Playa San Francisco's access road. The ancient structure is only the size of a small house, so keep your eyes peeled for it. El Cedral is thought to have been an important ceremonial site, and today there is a small stucco church sitting next to the ruin.
This park on the bay of the same name swarms with snorkellers, even though there's really not a whole lot to see in the water aside from a few brightly coloured fish and some deliberately sunken artificial objects. However, its beach is a stunner; walk 50m (164ft) inland to reach a limestone lagoon that is home to a host of iguanas and turtles. You can't swim or snorkel here with the lovely little creatures, but it's a pretty place to view nonetheless.
Also on the park grounds are a small archaeological park containing Olmec heads and Mayan artefacts; a small museum holding objects imported from Chichén Itzá opportunities to swim with dolphins or watch sea lions strut their stuff (for a price); and a botanical garden sprouting 400 species of tropical plants. Travellers with kids will appreciate the children's playground.
Playa San Francisco
A 14km (9mi) jaunt from San Miguel on Cozumel's west coast, Playa San Francisco is one nice sandy spread. And with white sands running for more than 3km (2mi) it's a popular spot, where locals and daytrippers from the cruise ships go to snorkel, relax and play beach games like volleyball. It's a great spot to picnic, or alternatively, pricey food is available at one of several restaurants within reach. If dive shops get your heart pumping, you'll find plenty to keep you occupied here.
A little more isolated in nature, Playa Palancar, a few kilometres south, has calm jet-ski-less waters to its credit. It is a beautiful place for a swim.
San Miguel de Cozumel
Isla Cozumel's only town is San Miguel de Cozumel, and it is where you'll find many restaurants, bars, hotels, tour agencies, banks and other amenities. It is well-equipped to deal with the global influx - you can chow down on food ranging from vegetarian to Mediterranean to local mesquite-grilled chicken.
The waterfront Avenida Rafael Melgar is generally bustling with cruise-ship tourists; wander off the track a little for a dose of the vibrant local scene. But before leaving Avenida Rafael Melgar, check out the fine Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, which presents a clear and detailed picture of the island's flora, fauna, geography, geology and ancient Mayan history. Well-scripted signs in both English and Spanish accompany the exhibits. Get your lesson on Coral 101 here before heading out to the reefs.
Plaza Del Sol, the town's main square, is a popular spot for strolling, hanging out and people-watching, especially on Sunday evenings when all of the locals seem to be out, soaking up the atmosphere.